Lyon

I've got to admit, in some respects, I prefer France's Second City to Paris.  Lyon is fresher, cleaner, less claustrophobic than its bigger sister to the North.  Still, I have a lot of both cities to explore, but so far Lyon has come off on top.

We started on the first day doing some shopping, Nick and I both need new winter coats, and the temperature is beginning to dip a li'l, and so we now both look a little sharper!

After that, we did some exploring of the old town (Vieux Lyon), and had some lunch in a lovely little bakery.  Vieux Lyon is lovely, with old buildings, cobbled streets and hidden passageways that make their way between buildings. 

After lunch, we headed up to the Basilica with views out over the city.  The area has lovely views out over the whole city, and next door stands a miniature Eiffel Tower!  Hilarious.  After that, we made our way back down hill via the Roman Ruins.  Lyon is built around the old Gaul-Roman city of Lugdunum, and the ruins are pretty wonderful, and surprisingly well preserved in comparison to those in Rome.

Then a wander around the old Silk Making district, and back to the Old Town for dinner.


Day Two started with brunch in old town - delicious quiches finished off with a local speciality, praline tarts.  After lunch, we took a leisurely walk up to the Parc Tete D'Or, a beautiful park in the northern end of the city, made even more beautiful by the falling leaves and the autumn colours.  A visit through the zoo, then back into town.

So in conclusion, if you make your way to France, I would highly recommend a few days spent in Lyon.  It's a lovely change of pace from other areas we've visited - no vast wealth like the Riviera, and not as busy as Paris, but still with its own personality and beauty.

Nice and Monaco

Last days of warm weather...

So, following on from my previous blog post, we arrived safe and sound in the French Riviera after a rather lovely train ride from the Basque Region.  

Nice is nice.  I know it's cliche, but there's really no other word to describe it. The sun was shining, the beaches were beautiful, the people were super friendly and the streets were clean and fresh.

The old town district of the City is buzzing and alive with locals and tourists mixing together amongst beautiful architecture, and the newer areas of town are open and clear.  Set in between the beach and the mountains, it was a great way to just relax - there's very little to do apart from just chill out and enjoy the weather.   It's October, and we're still getting days with highs in their 20's - this kind of good luck can't carry on forever, so we'll enjoy it while it lasts!

However while there we decided to head off to Monaco one day just to have a look around.  This little principality is absolutely amazing!

Super yacht much?

We started off by having a look around the Royal Palace which was fantastic, sitting up on the hill above the harbour.  After lunch up on the hill and a wander around the Royal Gardens, we made our way down to the Harbour - so very many super yachts!

Then we decided to indulge our rich Nick and Corry fantasies, and headed into Monte Carlo.  The Casino is fantastic - such incredible wealth!  Just seeing all the Maseratis, Lamborghinis and Porches!  Fantastic.  And the casino itself, wow!  So much money has been invested in this area, it's overwhelming.

Me with the Monte Carlo casino in the background

Then back to Nice.  We had a quick thunder storm, but then wonderful weather again.  We're heading North now, so imagine that it won't last. 

Next stop - Lyon. 

The French Riviera!

It's been a long few days.

We have spent, over two days, roughly 15 hours on train:

• From San Sebastian;
• To Hendaye;
• To Bordeaux;
• To Toulouse;
• To Nice

 Needless to say it's been a long couple of days!

San Sebastian, I imagine, would be pretty amazing should the weather be nice.  Unfortunately it just wasn't to be this time around.  There was pretty much no sun for the entire two days we were there.  Which is a real shame - no beaches, no swimming, no wonderful lookout points.  We shall have to make a time to come back at a later date.

However, the train journey from San Sebastian to Nice, while long, was absolutely magnificent.  I would highly recommend it to anyone travelling around Europe - from the beautiful vineyards of the Bordeaux, through to Beautiful Cannes, along the ocean.

So here we are in Nice.  We haven't acheived much yet, but it should be a lovely couple of days.  The weather has been great so far, so we might be able to work on our town.

Will update more when I have something more to say, in the mean time...


WE'RE IN THE FRENCH RIVIERA!

Lovely.

San Sebastian, Night One

Sigh.

I suppose it had to happen sooner or later.  When one is travelling in the shoulder season, one should not expect perfect conditions all of the time.  And it is getting later and later, and we are travelling further northward.

Still, did it have to happen here of all places?

San Sebastian is a beach town in the North East of Spain, almost on the French Border.  It is renowned as a beautiful beach resort style city.  And it would have been an absolutely beautiful place to chill out, relax and enjoy some wonderful beach style atmosphere... if the skies hadn't opened up on our arrival.

REALLY? 

We've been looking to destress from all this travel stuff, sit on a beach, drink cocktails for weeks now.  That was why we chose this place.  Instead we've had to wrap ourselves up in jerseys and waterproof pants and carry umbrellas with us.  Do you know how much fun it is to carry 15kg packs over two kilometers in the rain?  I wasn't laughing, I can tell you.

Sigh.  Part of me knows I shouldn't be complaining.  For goodness sake, we're having the adventure of a life time, doing things we've been planning to do for months now.  Still - definite frowny face moment.

Hopefully it'll improve before we leave and we'll be able to share some lovely experiences with you all.

I wouldn't count on it though.

Bilbao

Guggenheim Bilbao

Bilbao is located in the Northern end of Spain in an area called Basque.  It considers itself almost autonomous from the rest of the country - up until Franco it had its own language, which he tried to kill off.

Originally an area defined by its industrial and mining background, it had a resurgence from the early 90's after it was allowed its own language back.   This also culminated in the building of Frank Gehry's Guggenheim Museum.  It's now a thriving cultural mecca, with a strong artistic bent.

The Guggenheim was definitely the highlight of the city.  It is an almost magical building - from the way it looks both internally and externally, to the flow through the galleries themselves, the way the titanium coating changes colour given the conditions around it - and this is before you even get to the artwork!  And this in itself is pretty spectacular.  Even the pieces outside the museum are worthy of their own gallery.  

Otherwise, Bilbao is a beautiful city.  The architecture is probably some of the most stunning you'll see anywhere in Europe.  The use of the river is an example unto itself.  Each of the bridges that cross the river are slightly different, and give great examples of design from the periods that they relate to - the modern bridges up the Western end of the city areavant garde and interesting without being cliche or garish, while others reflect a much older design aesthetic.

Also along the river you can take in a sculpture walk which allows you to revel in the exterior art work of the city.  We also took the cable car to the lookout over the city - well worth it to accustom yourself to the layout.

The food was pretty fantastic as well - we ate pintxos (a Basque version of tapas) and a delicious meal out in Old Town (which is well worth a couple of hours wandering around, especially if you like shopping!).  

However as we head further north, we're finding the weather to be turning a little.  The first day was in the 20's, the other two were getting a little cooler.

So now off to San Sebastian.  We hear good things!

Hold on - a modern museum PLUS a giant fingerprint??? Hrmmm, where have I heard of this before...?

Barcelona II

So, after Gaudi-ing ourselves out the first day, we have decided to see what else Barcelona had to offer.

On Monday, because like everywhere else we visited most of the museums are closed, we started off at the La Boqueria, the local market.  This is a thoroughly enjoyable experience - vibrant, colourful and intense.  Highly recommend it.

After that, we made our way down to the MNAC - Museum of Catalonyan Art.  While the museum itself was closed, the palace itself is absolutely beautiful and the views from the top stunning.

On Tuesday we took advantage of the fantastic weather and made our way down to the Barcelona Beaches.  There's something rather magnificent about being in 20+ degrees on a beach drinking sangria when you know everyone else is only just getting used to wearing T-shirts again.  Ah well.

Then after a day there, we headed down up and had a look at the Picasso Museum.  It's an interesting opportunity, after seeing some of his more famous later work, to have a look at how some of that work was shaped.  A lot of the museum is dedicated to his earlier art work, which contains elements of realism and impressionism, and then slowly moves into his later work.

So, overall a thoroughly enjoyable three days in Barcelona.  If you are heading to Europe, I would include at least a short visit to this city on my 'must do' list.  It is a beautiful city and one i would love to spend some more time in.


Today, we got up early and jumped on a train to Bilbao.  If nothing else, the train ride between the two cities is beautiful.  Quite stunning, especially when we saw the big birds of prey circling over the mountains.  Old towns on hill tops, ancient castles, huge vineyards, a wonderful journey.

So here we are!  Will update all on Bilbao - once we've managed to explore the place!

Barcelona I

Sagrada Familia

Barcelona is completely nothing like I expected.  This is a thoroughly modern city.  Here I was expecting a dirty, brown and drab city stuck in the past.  Instead this is a city that, while it respects and appreciates its past, it is fresh, clean, open and colourful.  I was amazed at the amount of green space, the wide streets, the care taken with the city.  There are parks everywhere you turn, with a mix of modern, contemporary architecture with the older.

We arrived on ferry last night in the Port, and made our way into town.  We are lucky to be staying in a cute li’l apartment right in the middle of the city.  Down la Ramblas, there is such a buzz on the streets!

So after a good night’s sleep, we decided to dedicate today to Gaudi.  Starting off with Sagrada Familia.  This is an absolutely fantastic modernist chapel, and probably one of the absolute highlights of Barcelona.  Starting with the exterior of the building which only about half finished (after so long, it’s still only due to be completed by 2020).  It feels... organic, almost as if it could have risen out of the ground.  The inside feels fresh and clean, and is flooded with light.  I’d like to come back when it’s complete to see what they’ve done with the place.

Then from there we moved up to Parc Guell.  This is a park that Gaudi designed to be a suburb that never eventuated.  I think the best description of the space is like something out of a Dr Seuss book – not a straight line in sight!  Even pillars are off-centre.

Nick at Parc Guell

Then from there we went and had a look at Casa Battlo, a residential building that Gaudi built.  Full of curves and nautical themes, the house is almost like being inside a giant sea monster.

Then finishing the day with sangria and tapas. 

So yes, I am loving Barcelona.  I am looking forward to exploring more of this amazing city over the next few days.