Rome and Final Chapter on Italy

This post is being written on an overnight ferry between Civitavecchia and Barcelona.  Yes, for those of you more observant, I’m on a boat.

I'm on a boat!

It’s been a wonderful few weeks in Italy.  We have experienced a lot of what makes this peninsula country wonderful – the history, the cuisine, the people, and the climate.  And spending the last few days in Rome was a fitting way and thoroughly enjoyable way to end the trip. 

My advice to travellers to this amazing city would be to give yourself plenty of time to explore.  There has been plenty to see in the Eternal City, and it would have been a shame had we rushed it.  Plus we also took, as strange as it may sound, a ‘day off’ (yes, I realise that neither Nick or myself have had a job since August, but still travelling takes it out of you – I’d highly recommend on long journeys to plan occasional ‘days off’ where you can stay in, do some planning, catch up on laundry etc...).

Anyway, back to Rome.  I won’t give you the whole story, but will cover the highlights.

Corry the Gladiator

We arrived last Sunday, and spent the first day exploring the ancient part of the city, that which most people associate with Rome.  After a visit to the Circus Maximus (which, while interesting, is these days essentially just a field with a few rocks) and a glance at the old Bath houses, you make your way along what appears to be an unassuming street. 

Because it’s hidden behind trees, you don’t notice the Coliseum until you’re essentially right there, with the only indication being the hawkers selling their wares on the streets).  But when you’re there, it truly takes your breath away.  You can imagine how it would have looked in days gone by.  But there’s something amazing in its ruinous state, it’s gained something in its old age – a sense of history that goes with something that age.  Plus with its bare bones, you can also get a bit of a ‘behind the scenes’ feel, being able to see under where the stage would have been, peering into the underground storage area, wandering in and out of the pillars.  An absolute must-see.

Also worth having a look at are the archaeological sites for the old Forum and Palatine Hill right next door to the Coliseum.  Because these are in a much worse state than their oval neighbour one’s imagination must work a bit harder, but they can really give you a sense of what Rome might have been like 2000 years ago.

The views down towards the Form from Capitoline Hill

Everywhere you go here, you are reminded of the City’s history.  With a history as long as Rome’s, there’s always plenty on display, but of course its ruins (which are almost everywhere) are absolutely fascinating.

The following day, we decided to take in Vatican City (another country to add to my list!).  It’s quite a pretty walk getting there along the Tiber with its tree lined streets and wonderful selection of bridges.  Anyway, first stop the Vatican Museum.  By now I’m getting slightly art-weary (how many busts is it possible to really appreciate?), but there is a good selection of pieces, both ancient and modern.  If nothing else, the museum is worthy of a visit for the Cistine Chapel.  Yes, it’s a tourist trap, and it can be a bit much being there when the Chapel is packed full of tourists, but nonetheless well worth it to see one of the most recognisable pieces of artwork in the Western canon.

Then off to St Peter’s Basilica.  I’m pretty sure that this is the largest church in the World.  I could be wrong on that count, but the de facto home of Catholicism is a stunning place, to be sure.  We of course climbed the Dome and there are some great views out over Rome from up there.

The Vatican - St Peters Square

Does this bag go with my stockings?

Other things we’ve visited in our time in Rome have included the Spanish Steps, the Trevi Fountain (Yup, threw in the coin, made the wish), Piazza Navona, headed up to the Medici Villa (worth it purely for the views), Capitoline Museum and Hill (with the statue Romulus, Remus and the Wolf) and Mussolini’s Typewriter.  Yup, been a busy week!

I’m going to admit, much to my chagrin, that Rome hasn’t been my favourite place to visit.  Yes, it’s very interesting and you’d be stupid to miss it, but to me it didn’t have the same vibe as other places in Italy I’ve visited.  Maybe it’s just too big, too busy for my liking.  I preferred the slightly smaller cities and towns in Italy over Rome.

Okay, so Italy’s all over and done with, on the way to Espanola next.  Judgement calls for the time here:

• Eating:  Hrmm, tough call, I’m going to call it for Milan on this one.  We had some lovely meals here, including a wonderful rabbit pasta which was very flavoursome.  Although right throughout the whole country you can find fantastic food.  Try and avoid the most heavily touristed places to get the best meals
• Views:  Rome, although only just.  Because of its size, you get lots of different options on how to view.
• Art:  Florence.  Hands down.
• Beauty:  Toss-up between Venice and the Cinque Terre.  Both amazing in their own right
• Architecture:  Florence.  I really enjoyed the Renaissance feel of the city
• History:  Rome.  Easily.
• Shopping:  Strangely enough, Venice.  Because of the cruise ships and tourists, they do cater to a surprisingly large budget mix.  Plus apparently the food markets are good, though we didn’t get a chance to try them

 One final thought on Italy - DO NOT forget bug spray.  The mozzies are vicious over here, and the repellent is very expensive.

Right, get set Spain, Nick and I are on our way!