Barcelona II

So, after Gaudi-ing ourselves out the first day, we have decided to see what else Barcelona had to offer.

On Monday, because like everywhere else we visited most of the museums are closed, we started off at the La Boqueria, the local market.  This is a thoroughly enjoyable experience - vibrant, colourful and intense.  Highly recommend it.

After that, we made our way down to the MNAC - Museum of Catalonyan Art.  While the museum itself was closed, the palace itself is absolutely beautiful and the views from the top stunning.

On Tuesday we took advantage of the fantastic weather and made our way down to the Barcelona Beaches.  There's something rather magnificent about being in 20+ degrees on a beach drinking sangria when you know everyone else is only just getting used to wearing T-shirts again.  Ah well.

Then after a day there, we headed down up and had a look at the Picasso Museum.  It's an interesting opportunity, after seeing some of his more famous later work, to have a look at how some of that work was shaped.  A lot of the museum is dedicated to his earlier art work, which contains elements of realism and impressionism, and then slowly moves into his later work.

So, overall a thoroughly enjoyable three days in Barcelona.  If you are heading to Europe, I would include at least a short visit to this city on my 'must do' list.  It is a beautiful city and one i would love to spend some more time in.


Today, we got up early and jumped on a train to Bilbao.  If nothing else, the train ride between the two cities is beautiful.  Quite stunning, especially when we saw the big birds of prey circling over the mountains.  Old towns on hill tops, ancient castles, huge vineyards, a wonderful journey.

So here we are!  Will update all on Bilbao - once we've managed to explore the place!

Barcelona I

Sagrada Familia

Barcelona is completely nothing like I expected.  This is a thoroughly modern city.  Here I was expecting a dirty, brown and drab city stuck in the past.  Instead this is a city that, while it respects and appreciates its past, it is fresh, clean, open and colourful.  I was amazed at the amount of green space, the wide streets, the care taken with the city.  There are parks everywhere you turn, with a mix of modern, contemporary architecture with the older.

We arrived on ferry last night in the Port, and made our way into town.  We are lucky to be staying in a cute li’l apartment right in the middle of the city.  Down la Ramblas, there is such a buzz on the streets!

So after a good night’s sleep, we decided to dedicate today to Gaudi.  Starting off with Sagrada Familia.  This is an absolutely fantastic modernist chapel, and probably one of the absolute highlights of Barcelona.  Starting with the exterior of the building which only about half finished (after so long, it’s still only due to be completed by 2020).  It feels... organic, almost as if it could have risen out of the ground.  The inside feels fresh and clean, and is flooded with light.  I’d like to come back when it’s complete to see what they’ve done with the place.

Then from there we moved up to Parc Guell.  This is a park that Gaudi designed to be a suburb that never eventuated.  I think the best description of the space is like something out of a Dr Seuss book – not a straight line in sight!  Even pillars are off-centre.

Nick at Parc Guell

Then from there we went and had a look at Casa Battlo, a residential building that Gaudi built.  Full of curves and nautical themes, the house is almost like being inside a giant sea monster.

Then finishing the day with sangria and tapas. 

So yes, I am loving Barcelona.  I am looking forward to exploring more of this amazing city over the next few days.

Rome and Final Chapter on Italy

This post is being written on an overnight ferry between Civitavecchia and Barcelona.  Yes, for those of you more observant, I’m on a boat.

I'm on a boat!

It’s been a wonderful few weeks in Italy.  We have experienced a lot of what makes this peninsula country wonderful – the history, the cuisine, the people, and the climate.  And spending the last few days in Rome was a fitting way and thoroughly enjoyable way to end the trip. 

My advice to travellers to this amazing city would be to give yourself plenty of time to explore.  There has been plenty to see in the Eternal City, and it would have been a shame had we rushed it.  Plus we also took, as strange as it may sound, a ‘day off’ (yes, I realise that neither Nick or myself have had a job since August, but still travelling takes it out of you – I’d highly recommend on long journeys to plan occasional ‘days off’ where you can stay in, do some planning, catch up on laundry etc...).

Anyway, back to Rome.  I won’t give you the whole story, but will cover the highlights.

Corry the Gladiator

We arrived last Sunday, and spent the first day exploring the ancient part of the city, that which most people associate with Rome.  After a visit to the Circus Maximus (which, while interesting, is these days essentially just a field with a few rocks) and a glance at the old Bath houses, you make your way along what appears to be an unassuming street. 

Because it’s hidden behind trees, you don’t notice the Coliseum until you’re essentially right there, with the only indication being the hawkers selling their wares on the streets).  But when you’re there, it truly takes your breath away.  You can imagine how it would have looked in days gone by.  But there’s something amazing in its ruinous state, it’s gained something in its old age – a sense of history that goes with something that age.  Plus with its bare bones, you can also get a bit of a ‘behind the scenes’ feel, being able to see under where the stage would have been, peering into the underground storage area, wandering in and out of the pillars.  An absolute must-see.

Also worth having a look at are the archaeological sites for the old Forum and Palatine Hill right next door to the Coliseum.  Because these are in a much worse state than their oval neighbour one’s imagination must work a bit harder, but they can really give you a sense of what Rome might have been like 2000 years ago.

The views down towards the Form from Capitoline Hill

Everywhere you go here, you are reminded of the City’s history.  With a history as long as Rome’s, there’s always plenty on display, but of course its ruins (which are almost everywhere) are absolutely fascinating.

The following day, we decided to take in Vatican City (another country to add to my list!).  It’s quite a pretty walk getting there along the Tiber with its tree lined streets and wonderful selection of bridges.  Anyway, first stop the Vatican Museum.  By now I’m getting slightly art-weary (how many busts is it possible to really appreciate?), but there is a good selection of pieces, both ancient and modern.  If nothing else, the museum is worthy of a visit for the Cistine Chapel.  Yes, it’s a tourist trap, and it can be a bit much being there when the Chapel is packed full of tourists, but nonetheless well worth it to see one of the most recognisable pieces of artwork in the Western canon.

Then off to St Peter’s Basilica.  I’m pretty sure that this is the largest church in the World.  I could be wrong on that count, but the de facto home of Catholicism is a stunning place, to be sure.  We of course climbed the Dome and there are some great views out over Rome from up there.

The Vatican - St Peters Square

Does this bag go with my stockings?

Other things we’ve visited in our time in Rome have included the Spanish Steps, the Trevi Fountain (Yup, threw in the coin, made the wish), Piazza Navona, headed up to the Medici Villa (worth it purely for the views), Capitoline Museum and Hill (with the statue Romulus, Remus and the Wolf) and Mussolini’s Typewriter.  Yup, been a busy week!

I’m going to admit, much to my chagrin, that Rome hasn’t been my favourite place to visit.  Yes, it’s very interesting and you’d be stupid to miss it, but to me it didn’t have the same vibe as other places in Italy I’ve visited.  Maybe it’s just too big, too busy for my liking.  I preferred the slightly smaller cities and towns in Italy over Rome.

Okay, so Italy’s all over and done with, on the way to Espanola next.  Judgement calls for the time here:

• Eating:  Hrmm, tough call, I’m going to call it for Milan on this one.  We had some lovely meals here, including a wonderful rabbit pasta which was very flavoursome.  Although right throughout the whole country you can find fantastic food.  Try and avoid the most heavily touristed places to get the best meals
• Views:  Rome, although only just.  Because of its size, you get lots of different options on how to view.
• Art:  Florence.  Hands down.
• Beauty:  Toss-up between Venice and the Cinque Terre.  Both amazing in their own right
• Architecture:  Florence.  I really enjoyed the Renaissance feel of the city
• History:  Rome.  Easily.
• Shopping:  Strangely enough, Venice.  Because of the cruise ships and tourists, they do cater to a surprisingly large budget mix.  Plus apparently the food markets are good, though we didn’t get a chance to try them

 One final thought on Italy - DO NOT forget bug spray.  The mozzies are vicious over here, and the repellent is very expensive.

Right, get set Spain, Nick and I are on our way!

Some ponderings on travels

We didn't travel much as kids.  

Unfortunately the family didn't have much money - I remember one of the best family holidays we had was all the way from Greytown to the Hawkes Bay.  And that seemed pretty far away.  Not to say that we didn't enjoy the voyages we did take.

Well, actually...

While I always enjoyed the destinations, and the company, I do remember not enjoying travelling.  Being in a car for any longer than half an hour always seemed to drag for me, to the point where I would try and avoid it where possible, from memory.  I sort of saw that reflected today a little. 

There we were wandering around St. Peter's Basilica in the Vatican, taking in the marvels of one of the world's largest churches and the riches inside.  It's a marvellous spectacle, but I'll come back to this at a later post.  Needless to say that we, and the majority of those there, were thoroughly enjoying it.

And then you see the teenagers there with their parents, who have graciously covered the cost of said teenagers to take in this rather magnificent spectacle, looking thoroughly non-plussed, as if they'd rather be anywhere else than right there.  So there I am, thinking, how ungrateful!  Here you are in one of the world's great monuments, and this is how you're choosing to repay the parents who probably had to sacrifice to get you here?

Then I realised, I probably wasn't that different at her age.  Okay, slight difference between the back of the station wagon between Greytown and Hastings and the Basilica, but same basic concept.

So, in some respects, perhaps it is better to wait.  I didn't get my passport until I was around 25, but since then I've been to ten countries (and counting), and I'm enjoying every minute of it.  I don't think I really would have got as much out of my travels if I was a petulant teenager taking in the grandeur of Europe or the States.

But here I am now, getting as much as I possibly can out of this trip, and thinking about where to go after this, or where to plan for another voyage.  And, when I'm on that voyage I'll probably complain that I was too young in my 30's to appreciate it...

Seaside Villages to the Extreme!

For those of you who are unaware, about two hour's north of Florence between La Spezia and Genoa on the Mediterranean coast are a selection of five small fishing villages.  Built straight upon the coastal cliffs, these five villages are collectively known as the Cinque Terre, loosely translated, surprisingly enough, as the Five Lands.

And they are without a doubt one of the most wonderful places I have visited on my 31 years on this planet.   Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore are the most spectacularly beautiful little places.  The Cinque Terre has been protected with UNESCO World Heritage status, so retain their charm - no cars, no modern hotels, just beautiful countryside.

Riomaggiore

We arrived last Thursday and had a place booked in Riomaggiore, the first of the five villages heading northward.  We spent the first afternoon and evening just taking in this cute little seaside village - the marina, the rocky beach, the restaurants, an absolutely wonderful experience.  Luckily coming in at the shoulder season meant that there weren't too many tourists around.  Unfortunately there had been some landslips recently, so the main coastal route between the villages has been shut off.

Monterosso al Mare

So the next day we decided to catch a train to the farthest village, Monterosso al Mare and work our way back by train.  Monterosso is probably the most touristy of the towns with a large beach, but still beautiful.  It has this impressive statue (click here - not our photo I hasten to add) and a wonderful castle with views out over the ocean.

Vernazza

Next along we came to Vernazza.  Here we took the castle (which was initially used to keep an eye on local pirates - exciting!), and now serves to provide fantastic views over the town.  Then down for lunch in town, with the local specialties - seafood, wine and basil pesto.  Life is difficult.

Corniglia

After lunch, we made our way to Corniglia.  It turns out that 365 steps, while giving great views, make for difficult climbing for weather in the high 20's.  However, this made for absolutely fantastic views of the town and surrounding coastline.  Plus some delicious gelato!

Manarola

Then onwards to Manarola.  By this time Nick and I were feeling rather overheated.  Manarola has some magnificent harbour rock pools which would be great for swimming, but with nowhere to change we just took in the views.  

So, after viewing all five villages, we headed back to Riomaggiore for the evening.  After an absolutely amazing swim in the Mediterranean sea (I went swimming in the Med!), we watched the sun go down over the horizon with shockingly beautiful colours, then had a seafood dinner down by the Marina.  What a way to finish our stay!

Off to Rome next.  Time to get historical up in hizzle!

Finishing off Tuscany

(Sorry guys, this is a rather long post... but keep reading!)

Watch out!  It's falling!  Oh, wait...

As mentioned at the end of my previous blog entry, Nick and I decided to spend our last day in the Tuscan region by heading out of Florence and spending some time in Pisa, just over an hour’s train ride from central Florence.  All I was really expecting of Pisa was a tower on a slight lean.

However, I was mistaken.  For a start, the train trip between the two places is a rather lovely experience in itself.  The Tuscan countryside is absolutely marvellous with old farm houses, some in a rather rustic state of ruin.  At this time of year it’s a beautiful mix of colours – the rustic browns of the buildings matching the falling leaves, contrasted against the bright green grass that the recent rain has allowed to come through.  In the hillsides you can see great manmade cliffs from marble quarries, very interesting.  Plus villages on hills and the occasional castle or watchtower!

Then when you get to Pisa it has a life all unto itself.  It’s a student city, so the city is very vibrant and alive.  The centre of town is a mix of buildings from different areas, and the river once again splits the city in two.

As is Nick’s want, rather than just making the most direct path from A to B, we headed in the general direction of the ‘Field of Miracles’ where the Tower is located.  This allowed us to take in the surroundings and enjoy what was going on around us.  And then we turned a corner and saw the Tower in front of us.

The Tower of Pisa itself is very interesting.  It seems larger than you’d expect it to be, and at a very noticeable lean!  But almost of more interest is what else is around the Tower.  Of course, you have the hilarious tourists all trying to be original by holding up or pushing the tower over (Yes, of course we did that too, but that’s different because we’re cool).  But it’s also in rather a beautiful area – the buildings around it are even more ancient than the tower itself, and the Cathedral in the Field is a standalone beauty.  Plus the old Town Walls which go around the field add to the sense of history.  All in all, a rather amazing experience and one I’d definitely recommend a field trip to while in the area.  I think I would have liked to have spent some more time in this area.

On the way back, I started to think about some of the things I’ve seen over my time in Italy so far (we still have another week or so to go).  One of the things which has got to me the most and was almost more prevalent in Florence and Pisa than anywhere else we’ve seen is those at the bottom end of the socioeconomic scale.  The most obvious representation of this is the hawkers selling cheap goods to tourists on street corners.  While not a phenomenon I haven’t witnessed before – they’re relatively prevalent in Thailand as well – here in Italy, especially in Tuscany, they’re on nearly every street corner.  Umbrellas, sunglasses, “Rolexes”, toys, tissues, handbags are all available as cheap as chips.  Almost all of these hawkers here in Italy are of African descent and they’re almost exclusively male.

I don’t really have too much of a problem with these guys in themselves – they have to make a living somehow, and I’m pretty good at ignoring them now.  I don’t need anything they’re selling and I know that, if I did, I’d pay a little more for something that I know will last longer.  The hawkers are just part of a larger problem.

Where I think this problem is raising its ugly head in a much more tangible way is the beggars.  There’s a wide range of these and they really break my heart.  While the hawkers are almost exclusively male, the beggars are by and large women.  The most aggressive of these know when to try the hardest for a few dollars, and public transport is the most obvious target.  They’ll try to get a few cents change from those at ticket vending machines, or on trains or buses where they know their market is unable to easily move away from them.  You even see a few with their children with them.  This is particularly distressing.

Probably the most heartbreaking I’ve seen is a very old woman who was begging outside a bank.  She was on her knees, but she didn’t even raise her head off the ground.  All you could see was her head scarf, and one hand trembling.

It’s incredibly hard not to give these guys money.  I know there are very good reasons not to (you don’t know where it’s going, who’s taking a cut of this at the end of the day and once you start others get wind and suddenly you get seen as an easy target).  Plus generally speaking I don’t carry cash around with me if I can possibly avoid it.  But it doesn’t make it any easier.

I’ve been thinking about the causes of this.  I’m not naive enough to think that we don’t have homeless in New Zealand, but it just seems much closer to the surface here, and I was wondering what the difference was, what the New Zealand government might be doing that the Italian wasn’t.  Then it dawned on me.  New Zealand is a small island on the edge of the Earth which is exceptionally difficult to get to.  Italy however is not. From what I understand, there’s quite a problem with illegal immigration here in Italy.  And those immigrants have no legitimate means of supporting themselves, and they can’t get any sort of financial assistance from the Italian government as they’re not citizens.  Add to this the fact that the Italian economy has been hit hard by the recession, and problems begin to show themselves.  So even though they desperately want to get themselves to a better place for both them and their children, it’s so hard for them because the Government won’t recognise them.

It makes for a rather depressing situation for all those involved.

Goodbye Firenze, you've been wonderful.

Anyway, that’s my rant for today.  Tomorrow, out of Tuscany and up to the Cinque Terre.

P.S. - Pizza in Pisa (Sorry, had to be done.)

Firenze in autunno

There was a storm the day we arrived.

A huge storm with lightning and thunder and bucketloads of rain.  

I mention this becuase, during the storm, we were sitting on the terrace of a Tuscan villa.  Outside of Florence.  Drinking chianti.  

Right now, my life could be a lot worse.

Views like this are standard practice around this city.

Yes, we have arrived safe and sound in Florence, the home of the Italian Renaissance.  And it is truly a beautiful city.  The city is this interesting mix between small passage ways and vast open squares and the beautiful Arno river snaking its way past the city, and all of this placed amongst the beautiful hills of Tuscany.

On top of that autumn is now in full swing which means that, even though the temperatures are still in the mid twenties (w00t!), the leaves are falling.  All the colours match with the beautiful browns of the city.

After settling in on Sunday, we used Monday to get out and have a look around the town.  Here's a hint for future travelers, Mondays are good days to travel around Europe because a lot of the sights are closed. Anyway, we still managed to find plenty to do.  

First off, a walk along the Arno River and making our way up to Ponto Vecchio, a beautiful bridge across the river with built in shops.  There we saw the local authorities using bolt-cutters and power tools to remove all the padlocks that young lovers had put in place.  I wonder what happens to the couples when the bond is broken...

Then up to the Palazza Vecchio (The city's Town Hall), which is filled with beautiful artwork and overlooks the Piazza della Signoria which is filled with amazing statues.  Off to the Palazzo Medici Riccardi, the Palace of the Medicis (Remnants of this family are everywhere in this city!).

After two palaces in one day, we decided to head up to the Piazzale Michelangiolo.  If you do nothing else during your stay of the city, go here!  It's quite a walk, however the views out over the city and surrounds are second to none.  It is simply astonishing.

Then a quiet dinner and bottle of wine back at the villa.

The Firenze Duomo

Today we have completely arted ourselves out (is arted a word?).  Starting off with the Uffizi Gallery, which took a two hour queue to get into, but well worth it.  Sculpture and painting overload, but so much to see!  Probably what strikes me the most is the Bottocelli's Birth of Venus... I kept imagining Terry Gilliam doing the animations of it! (Original and Python version for those who have no idea what I'm talking about...)

Then, after lunch, we went to the Palazzo Pitti, a staggeringly large palace (yes, another palace) once owned by the Medicis (Yes, again...) with a huge collection of art.

So, after two staggeringly large art collections, we decided to... of course, go to another art gallery.  However, this time it was the Galleria Dell'Accademia.  This one is slightly special.  There, in pride of place, stood Michaelangelo's David.  I was standing at the feet of one of the greatest sculptures known to man.  And it was truly awe-inspiring.  The size, the level of attention to detail, it was just amazing.  A must do.

The Pitti Palace

So tomorrow, finishing off Florence then an afternoon in Piza.  Expect trashy touristy photos of running away/pushing down a certain tower.

Okay, time to get some sleep.  Lots of walking done today!